Beneath the marble: Unearthing the complex of the Valongo wharf
In the 18th century, Rio de Janeiro’s urban landscape was not merely a backdrop for the colonial economy; it was a deliberate system of control. While the city thrived on gold from Minas Gerais and the Atlantic trade, the human cost was hidden in plain sight. Initially, the trade of enslaved people occurred at the Rua Direita and near the Chafariz do Mestre Valentim, in the city's most prestigious areas. However, uncomfortable with the daily sight of such brutality, the elite successfully lobbied to transfer this "infamous commerce" away from their doorsteps.
In the 18th century, Rio de Janeiro’s urban landscape was not merely a backdrop for the colonial economy; it was a deliberate system of control. While the city thrived on gold from Minas Gerais and the Atlantic trade, the human cost was hidden in plain sight. Initially, the trade of enslaved people occurred at the Rua Direita and near the Chafariz do Mestre Valentim, in the city's most prestigious areas. However, uncomfortable with the daily sight of such brutality, the elite successfully lobbied to transfer this "infamous commerce" away from their doorsteps.
As a result, the Vice-Roy Marquês do Lavradio ordered the transfer of all disembarkation to the Valongo Cove, creating a specialized slave-trade complex that included the wharf, the Lazareto (a hospital for the sick), and the Cemitério dos Pretos Novos (the final destination for those who did not survive the crossing). This area became the world’s largest port for receiving enslaved Africans, with estimates suggesting that 800,000 to 1,000,000 people were forced through these gates between 1774 and 1831.
The architectural erasure began early. In 1843, the wharf was covered by the "Empress’s Wharf" to welcome Princess Teresa Cristina, a colonial effort to hide the site with marble. The state sought to literally bury the history of the slave trade under urban infrastructure, yet memory proved resilient. The rediscovery of these basalt stones during the Porto Maravilha project in 2011, and their subsequent UNESCO recognition, forced a national reckoning with this "sensitive heritage."
The legacy of the African diaspora in the Port Region is a story of resistance that transformed forced displacement into a profound cultural foundation. As a final note for our history-loving travelers, we recommend listening to the classic samba-enredo "Valongo," composed by the legendary Djalma Sabiá for the Salgueiro samba school in 1976. The lyrics provide a poignant musical reference to the very site where this history began, serving as a powerful soundtrack for your visit to the port. Exploring these paths with Taste Rio Tours is an act of historical excavation, ensuring that the labor, suffering, and creative genius that built Rio are never forgotten.
